It alsostimulates the antimicrobial peptide release by keratinocytes (skin cells). If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. In the UK, its actually the third most often listed perfume on the ingredient lists. Put your skin care routine to work while you sleep with our 97% naturally derived* rich night cream. Probably themost common silicone of all. Unless the brand tells you what they use, it's impossible to know for sure. It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. In-vivo (made on real people) tests showed that using 10% Argireline solution around the eyes for 15 days decreased wrinkles depth by 17%. This means,Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 does have some ability to smooth wrinkles (but not as well as Botox - sorry, if we sound like a broken record). - Step 3: Gently press and pat into dcollet, neck, and face. A natural emulsifier that helps oiland water to nicely mix together. MaritimeBeautyShop.com 2022. It's sweet and yellow and not only used for licorice all sorts but it's also a skincare superstar thanks to two magic properties: Nr. Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid calledstearic acid. It's probably the most hyped up natural butter in skincare today. n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; It is a naturalwax derivative (from rice bran, candelilla, and jojoba waxes) that also has some moisturizing properties as it can retain 6 times its own weight in water, forming a water cus. As for hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone meaning that it stays on the hair rather than evaporates from it andsmoothes the hairlike no other thing. Aveda Tulasara Firming Sleeping Masque is a rich moisturizing night cream that brightens skin overnight and infuses it with moisture. Waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. It's also a potent antioxidant and skin-brightening agentso it often shows up in anti-aging and/or radiance-boosting products. It helps to soften scars and increase their elasticity. The most active part is called glabridin. An error has occurred. An extract that comes from one or more of the 20 000 kinds of algae out there. alcohol. So now, you know that Vitamin C is great and all, but it's really unstable and gives cosmetics companies many headaches. It leaves a nice non-greasy, non-heavy feeling on the skin. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. It's the chemically chopped up version of normal lecithin. With a sweet, light and floral scent, Farnesol is a popular fragrancing ingredient to make your cosmetics that bit nicer to use. There is, for example,an algae extract trade-named Lanablue that comes fromblue-green algae (green algae is rare, less than 1% of the total macroalgae in the world) and is claimed to have retinoid like effects(i.e. A common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like smell. You can unsubscribe at anytime. It autoxidizes on air exposure and counts as a common skin sensitizer. Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. - Rich night cream brightens skin and infuses it with moisture Chemically speaking, it is a saturated (no double bonds) hydrocarbon (a molecule consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), meaning that it's a nice and stable oily liquid with a long shelf life. var s = document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(wa, s); Licorice Root;Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Form of Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Isotetrapalmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, ATIP. It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule and has different molecular weight and thus different viscosity versions from water-light to thickliquid. Another advantage of squalane is that it is pretty much compatible with all skin types and skin conditions. Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. So this one is the famous peptidethat's marketed by its manufacturer as the "Botox in a jar". We are massive vitamin C fans and have written about it inexcruciating detail. It is made up of 30 to 50 chemicals on average. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. Most often it's used to create liposomes and to coat and stabilizeother ingredients. Here is a brown algae extract (the most common type, about 59% of macroalgae), also just called Algae Extract on the product label that is simply claimed to be a free radical scavenger, aka antioxidant. Its part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot, jasmine, geranium and it can be found in 90-95% of prestige perfumes on the market. It is claimed tobring a silicone-feel to natural formulations and to givean ultra-soft texture and cushion touch. These were just three random examples from three manufacturers all called Algae extract even though they all come from different algae with different claims. A common fragrance ingredient that has a faint sweet balsamic smell. The theory is that it can inhibitthe activity of the 5--reductase enzyme that plays an important role in hair lossand allows a renewed growth phase of the hair. Limonene's nr1 function is definitely being a fragrance component, but there are several studies showing that it's also a penetration enhancer, mainly for oil-loving components. We have to admit thatAlgae Extract is not our favorite ingredient name. A study made in the UK with 483 people tested the allergic reaction to 3% oxidised linalool and 2.3% had positive test results. A fatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). Professionals please login to access pricing. In general algae extracts serve as moisturizing, emollient and thickening agents, and many of them also have additional anti-aging properties. 2 magic property is that licorice is a potent anti-inflammatory. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). Cucumber is a nice, non-irritating plant extract thats known for its soothing and emollient properties. })(); It can exfoliate skin both on the surface and in the pores and it's a potent anti-inflammatory agent. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. At the same time, it also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, such as the nowadays super commonly used phenoxyethanol. If you are someone who likes to know what you put on your face then fragrance is not your best friend - there's no way to know whats really in it. Anyhow, the point is this;there are tons of different types of Algae Extracts out there. A well-known thing about Caffeine isthat it improves the microcirculation of the blood vessels. Its a handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel. A real oldie but a goodie. 1 magic property is that it has skin-lightening or to say it another way depigmenting properties. is drying. If you see a cosmetic product that claims that it has "Botox-like effect" then two things are almost certain: one, the product overpromises and two, it contains Argireline. Unless you live under a rock you must have heard about shea butter. A very common water-loving surfactant and emulsifier that helps to keep water and oil mixed nicelytogether. It does smellnice but the problemis that it oxidizes on air exposure and the resulting stuff is not good for the skin. In theory, it can speed up the lipolysis process (the "fat burning" by our cells) andstimulate the draining lymph system that might lead to the improvement of cellulite. A common fragrance ingredient that smells like rose and can be found in rose oil. It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. The generic term for nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. Not bad! If these magic three letters dont tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. Be happy if it's on the ingredient list. Geraniol is a common fragrance ingredient. Turmeric is the yellow spice you probably know from curry and Indian food. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three monthsand 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. It's readily biodegradable. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! In addition,vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in thecase of ATIP, it's in-vitro and done by an ingredient supplier. Its used to treat several skin diseases that are connected to inflammation including atopic dermatitis, rosacea or eczema. Press the space key then arrow keys to make a selection. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one publishedin-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% ATIP. Even though some of its effects are more hyped up than backed up, it is still a nice tohave on many ingredient lists. Also, if your skin is sensitive, fragrance is again not your best friend. It seems to us that squalane is in fashion and there is a reason for it. Also, we have to agree with TruthInAging, that it's not a collagen builder and not a preventer of structural aging (think vitamin C, AHAs or retinol); it's just a quick fix. Pure Vitamin E. Great antioxidant that gives significant photoprotection against UVB rays. It can be found in many plant oils, e.g. Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often usedand often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. (function() { The emollient plant oil coming from the kernel (the seed of the seed) of the deliciousapricot fruit. There is just one catch regarding glabridin and licorice: the amount of glabridin in commercial licorice extracts can vary a lot. It can be produced from most vegetable oils (in oils three fattyacidmolecules are attached to glycerin instead of just one like here) in a pretty simple, "green" process that is similar to soap making. It smells like rose and can be found in rose oil or in small quantities in geranium, lemon and many other essential oils. s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)}(window,document,'script', 97% naturally-derived ingredients, this Aveda sleeping mask diminishes fine lines and wrinkles and helps skin feel firmer, and moisturized. A commonly used water-soluble surfactant and emulsifier. Its not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive. It can also be a solvent and canfight against microbes and insects very well. Best to avoid if you have sensitive skin. 'https://connect.facebook.net/en_US/fbevents.js'); As with all fragrance ingredients, citronellol can also cause allergic contact dermatitis and should be avoided if you have perfume allergy. With thiscontext in mind let's see whatATIP might be able to do. window.__lo_site_id = 90800; It might also have antioxidant and skin whiting properties. Glasswort Extract - A plant extract that's claimed to be able to strengthen the skin barrier and provide deep moisturization effect. It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only haveto be absorbed into the skin but also have to beconverted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. One of the EU 26 fragrances that has to be labelled separately because ofallergen potential. It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. So we will skip right to the part where we talk about what the hell it does in so-so many cosmetic products. Brightens skin overnight, nourishes dry skin. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacyor to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products.