Cutting-edge alpinists across the world laud the Arcteryx Alpha FL for its no-frills, lightweight build that climbs like an extension of the body. Category: AlpineWeight: 1 lb. The Exped Serac 35 goes head-to-head with our top alpine climbing pick, the Arcteryx Alpha FL above. Category: CragWeight: 3 lbs. We dont mention hydration compatibility much in this article, and we have our reasons. Arcteryxs Alpha FL and the Hyperlite Dyneema Prism Pack, for example, are made with waterproof or highly water-resistant materials. And it was close.Did you hear that rush of wind? Yeah like a parachute opening! But where did it go? Megan and I look around Osprey Mutant 52 Climbing Backpack Review, Quinn Brett: Look Up, Stand Still, Breathe, CiloGear 3030 Guide Service WorkSack ($239), Back to Our Climbing Pack Comparison Table. As weve mentioned above, convenience is the name of the game at the crag. You cant haphazardly throw heaps of gear into the Cragsmith, and weve often seen friends struggle to seal up the top zip with a hefty load. Because the approach is shorter, you dont really need pockets on your hipbelt like you might want on an alpine pack (we think the Patagonia Cragsmiths design is overkill in this respect). For one, Mammuts pack is slightly less robust with a 420-denier ripstop nylon body (Patagonias nylon is 630D). But the Mountain Hardwear is a great combination of both durability and organization, and its also available in a more versatile 30-liter version that you can also use on the approach (wed stick with the 20L for a dedicated follower pack). But if it fits you well, the Neon Gear is a more affordable Cragsmith alternative and a well-built pack overall.See the Mammut Neon Gear 45. Being able to throw everything into a pack allows faster loading and a more comfortable carry. In the end, these packs might not look as sleek as the competition, but they will last a long time and earn you major street cred in the mountains.See the CiloGear 3030 GS WorkSack. For approaches and climbs like those found in Red Rock, Yosemite, or even the Bugaboos (the Scrambler has alpine-specific features like ice tool holders and a storm flap over the top cinch), the Mountain Hardwear is a capable all-around rig. The Exped is only rated to carry 31 pounds, compared to the 50-pound capacity of the Osprey Mutant above (Arcteryx doesnt list a load limit for their pack, but wed estimate its similar to the Exped). These pockets are extremely difficult to access while the pack is loaded and cinched down. The Cragsmiths U-shaped zipper allows easy access to the entire contents of the pack without exposing gearor the packs suspension systemto dirt. The good: Its relatively affordable and comes with all the features youll need for rock and ice cragging, alpine climbing, mountaineering, and even skiing. For climbing technical rock or ice with a 30-plus-liter pack, it simply doesnt get much better. Category: AlpineWeight: 2 lbs. Follower packs are identified by their small capacitygenerally between 16 and 30 litersand have features like easy-to-access exterior pockets, reinforced haul loops, streamlined webbing hipbelts (or no hipbelt at all), and one-handed top drawstrings for quick retrieval of gear at the belay. Alpine packs range from 30 to 60 liters, and most climbers will err on the smaller side to avoid added ounces and poor weight distribution. And when youre ready to climb, it easily strips down to become a fast-and-light climbing machine. A small removable tarp extends from the pack to keep your gear clean, a large external pocket fits a guidebook nicely, and an external mesh pouch can store sweaty climbing shoes. Compared to the Alpha FL above, its a lot more customizable and a better choice for heavier loads, but you do give up the waterproof fabrics, streamlined build, and super light weight of the Arcteryx. For a great quiver-of-one option thats been around enough to stand the test of time, we really like this versatile and affordable hauler from BD.See the Black Diamond Mission 55. When it comes to long approaches or climbing with a pack on, climbers are willing to make all sorts of sacrifices in the way of organization shave weight and bulk. On the other hand, many alpine and follower packs will forgo paddingon the hipbelt and backpanel in particularfor a more streamlined and lighter design. 12 oz.Capacities: 45LWhat we like: Durable and allows for great organization.What we dont: Can be difficult to close with a full load. While carrying a rope and ice equipment on the outside of your alpine pack makes sense for mountain expeditions, theres no reason to deal with that sort of inconvenience at the crag. Category: AlpineWeight: 3 lbs. Further, its 1-pound-1.9-ounce build means its not our first choice for climbs with long approaches. But for recreational alpine or multi-pitch climbers or those looking for a hauler that can pull double duty as a daypack, we prefer the Scramblers mix of affordability and features. The Scrambler also comes in a 35-liter version, which can accommodate more gear but is less suitable on-route. Like many other follower packs, the Flash 18 has a top drawcord that can be opened and closed one-handed, a backpanel that can be taken out and used as a sit pad, removable hip and sternum straps, and even daisy-chain attachment points and an ice axe loop. Follower packs are designed to carry a days worth of supplieswater, food, sunscreen, extra layers, etc.while accompanying you on a multi-pitch route. The 3030 is their most versatile design and our favorite model for alpine missions: its a 40-liter pack with the suspension of a 30-liter, meaning it can accommodate an overnight kit but streamlines once youre ready to climb. The net result is long-lasting packs (weve put ours through the wringer for seven years) that are also extremely customizable: the lid, hipbelt, compression straps, and backpanel/sit pad are easily removable so you can hike into basecamp in comfort and then strip the pack down into a sleek alpine climbing machine (patience required). Some also come with shock cords or accessory straps for securing crampons, ice axes, or other bulky gear to the outside so you can hike with a massive load and strip down to a tight pack for the climb. It must be made for fast-and-light endeavors when retrieving items from your pack needs to be quick and easy. But for $40, the Flash is undeniably an excellent value, and its feature set is surprisingly functional for climbing. But while the Cragsmith is one of our most durable options, it does come with its fair share of compromises. The Multi Pitch 20s name gives it away: This is a burly pack ideal for both carrying and hauling on-route. To be honest, we didnt think wed ever see an Ospreya favorite among backpackers and hikersat the top of a climbing article, but we stand corrected. Many climbersespecially those headed into the mountains or up a long multi-pitch routewill want a pack with the ability to shed unneeded weight and bulk. Because an alpine pack needs to be useful for both hiking and climbing, most have the ability to streamline, including features like removable lids, hipbelts, and compression straps (for more, see our section on Streamlining Your Pack). A packs closure system is a great way to identify where it excels. Metolius also reinforced the sides of the Crag Station with Duathanethe same material used on their haul bagsto boost durability. And if you dont carry trad gear, you can likely get away with a lower-volume bag.Follower Pack Because of this, crag packs sacrifice a bit of weight-saving for organizational features, comfort, and durability, while follower and alpine packs shave off heavy fabrics, pockets, and cushy suspension systems to be fast and light. The most recent Ascensionist features a lightyet durable build (the new version is 420D vs. the old models 210D), secure ice-tool carry, and customizable features throughout. Oh yeah, headlamp. For more capacity for carrying overnight gear up a wall, check out Black Diamonds Touchstone 70 Haul Bag.See the Black Diamond Stubby Haul Bag. Many climbing-specific packs are made with reinforced haul loops for this very purpose. In terms of availability, CiloGear packs are often carried by local gear shops, but weve found that their website is the best place to buy (again, patience required). Suffice it to say, we generally trust packs that utilize this material. Category: FollowerWeight: 1 lb. Category: CragWeight: 4 lbs. See the Arc'teryx Alpha FL 30. Most of the alpine packs here have features like removable straps, lids, hipbelts, framesheets, stays, and more. With a larger feature set than the FL, including a lid, padded hipbelt, and side compression straps, the AR offers increased organizational options and is much more capable when weighted down. Also, organization is excellent: You get a top zip that lets you retrieve gear at a belay without the risk of spilling the contents, along with a small exterior zip pocket, deployable mesh pocket, lash points, and interior gear loops. Alpine Pack For the right application, the Cragsmith 45L is close to ideal: its comfortable, sleek, and even burly and protective enough to serve as a haul bag. If youre hauling your pack up a climb or hanging it from the anchor at a belay, youll want to make sure that it has a strong attachment point. Generally, alpine climbers will carry an overloaded pack on the approach so that once harness, climbing shoes, helmet, rope, rack, and draws have been removed, the bag isnt unwieldy and oversized on the climb. As always, be aware that there are sacrifices when shaving weight. Combining the carrying comfort of a backpack with the superior convenience of a duffel bag, Metolius Crag Station boasts one of the most unique designs on our list. Shaped like a bullet, the Rock Blitz rides high on the back, close against the body, and out of the way of a harness, allowing you to climb unencumbered. Climbings simplest discipline is experiencing a rush of new enthusiasts, in large part due to how accessible it is. 15 oz.Capacities: 35, 55LWhat we like: Lighter and more durable than the previous version, great all-rounder for multi-pitch climbs.What we dont: Not as comfortable as the Osprey Mutant or as streamlined as the Arcteryx Alpha FL. But for a bump in durability and a simple but practical design, the Crag Station is a steal at $130.See the Metolius Crag Station. Some, like the Black Diamond Creek 50,have haul-bag-style bases for simple loading, while others like Metolius Crag Station are designed with unique back or front openings for access to all your gear at once. To start, the suspension system only comes in one size, meaning it probably wont fit those with particularly large or small builds. But in the event that you need to hang a tag line or #6 cam from the outside, most crag packs come with a few external attachment points. The three types of packs will also often vary significantly in terms of carrying comfort. For those headed into the mountains on longer trips, the Ascensionist also comes in a 55-liter version built specifically for toting multi-day loads on the approach.See the Patagonia Ascensionist 35L. In general, our three categories above provide general guidelines for capacities: follower packs are about 16 to 30 liters, crag packs are in the 40-to-50-liter range, and alpine packs anywhere from 30 liters for a day mission to 60 liters for a week. And as for alpinists, most climbers we know choose not to weigh their pack down on the approach with liters of water, instead attaching a small .5-liter bottle to the outside of their pack with a carabiner and filling up beside the trail throughout the day. You get a full side zip for easy access to all your gear, and we like the reinforced crampon patch and ice tool attachments better than most. For moderate routes in Red Rock or the High Sierra, the REI and Black Diamond packs are more lightweight, packable options (9.5 and 14.2 oz., respectively). stripped)Capacities: 20, 30LWhat we like: Extremely durable and thoughtfully designed for alpine climbers.What we dont: Not widely available and requires time and care to customize. Keep in mind that Black Diamond also offers the more alpine-oriented Blitz pack (freshly revamped for 2022), which comes in two capacities (20 and 28L), is built with thinner and lighter 100-denier fabric, and features ice tool attachments and a removable foam backpanel.See the Black Diamond Rock Blitz 15. This small and quirky Portland-based company innovates and constructs all of their packs in-house, creatively piecing together materials to maximize both weight savings and durability. What are the downsides of the Black Diamond Mission 55? And at the belay, you can access all of your snacks and layers via the top openingwhich cinches closed with a one-handed drawstringor via the small side zip pocket. But for sport climbing or when youre splitting the rope and rack between two people, the Cragsmith is one of our favorite crag packs.See the Patagonia Cragsmith 45L. Packs like the Patagonia Cragsmithand Metolius Crag Station are like traveling suitcases, designed to provide easy and organized access to your gear. 10 oz.Capacities: 41LWhat we like: Extremely durable; affordable.What we dont: Not as user-friendly as Patagonias Cragsmith. Mountain Hardwear does offer a closer competitor in their Alpine Light 28 (also available in a 35-L version), which is built with hardwearing Spectra fabric and features a stripped-down feature set to save weight. It might seem too small to be useful, but its not. For more background information, see our climbing backpack comparison table and buying advice below the picks. And food. However, with a 420-denier fabric, the Serac is slightly more robust than the Alpha FL (400D), and we also appreciate the added durability of the packs mostly metal hardware. Conversely, wed find no need for the convenience of a duffel-style pack in the alpine. But buyer beware: follower pack sometimes can be a misnomer. And unfortunately, the Alpha FL only comes in one size, which can be limiting for those with particularly small or large frames. Mammut also added two zippered pockets on the backpanel flap for improved organization, as well as a pair of internal gear loops, an integrated rope bag, and an external pocket on the lid. You can get away with added bulk and weight when youre only hiking short distances, and will probably find that your load actually feels lighter with the beefy suspension. It all adds up to a highly capable crag pack from a trustworthy brandand at a very affordable price to boot. Category: CragWeight: 3 lbs. The thin nylon construction pales in comparison to more rugged follower packs like the Rock Blitz and Multi Pitch below. 14 oz.Capacities: 25, 35LWhat we like: Versatile as an approach or follower pack; functional feature set.What we dont: Not super durable and webbing hipbelt limits carrying capacity. See the Mountain Hardwear Scrambler 25. And crag packs are a different storynone on our list have a dedicated spot for a reservoir. Tacking on a bit of weight compared to other packs of its size, you get a fair amount of featuresincluding a removable floating lid, internal gear loop, and side dump pocketsin a fairly streamlined build that sits high on the torso. Category: AlpineWeight: 2 lbs. Attaching gear to the outside of a pack can quickly go from organized to completely chaotic, so be careful what (and where) you attach. The Black Diamond Rock Blitz is a purpose-built follower pack for rock climbers, ideal for carrying a days worth of supplies up long routes in areas like Red Rock or Squamish. What am I forgetting? CiloGear WorkSacks range from 20 to 75 liters, and each one is made to expand and compress to fit a range of loads. Once you reach the climb, slide the pads off the webbing hipbelt, cinch the bag down tight, and youve got yourself a lightweight climbing machine. It also has all the features we look for in an alpine-specific pack, including ice tool attachments, removable components, ski-carry loops, and glove-friendly zipper pulls. Our detailed climbing checklist below covers everything from equipment for different We wake at 6am to the faint jingle of Lornas watch muffled by her sleeping bag. Most of the time, we prefer a pack without a lid for fast-and-light endeavorsits simply fewer moving parts to deal with each time you want to access your gear. Category: Follower/alpineWeight: 1 lb. But despite its impressive weight and price, the Flash 18 does have its downsides, most notably in terms of durability. And with a recent upgrade, the Crag Pack got significantly more durable 1,000-denier fabric, and even features a handy micro-fiber pocket for your phone. Because rock climbing generally is a fair-weather activity, most of the packs here are not made to be highly water-resistant or waterproof. Originally designed to handle life on big walls like Yosemites El Capitan, haul bags are built with thick, laminated nylon and feature reinforced seams, multiple haul points, and tuck-away shoulder straps and removable hip belts. Most alpine-specific packs come with daisy chains, rope straps, accessory straps, and ice tool attachments for this very reason. Crag packs are designed with an emphasis on comfort, easy access, and durability. 1.4 oz.Capacity: 45LWhat we like: Affordable and plenty of organization.What we dont: Some will prefer the haul bag-style design of the BD Creek. To help, weve broken down our favorite models into three categories: crag, follower, and alpine.Crag Pack But despite these compromises, the Alpha FL nevertheless is one of the most fully functional and well-built designs for alpine-style missions. Ideally, you should be able to fit all of your days gear inside the bag. As a climbing ranger in Rocky Mountain National Park Bouldering is having its moment. Durability always is a consideration when it comes to outdoor gear, but it matters even more when it comes to items that are constantly dragged across rock and dropped on uneven surfaces. To create the ultralight Alpha FL, Arcteryx merged the lidless, top-loading design of a follower pack with a rugged, medium-capacity bag. However, with a similar webbing hipbelt as the 25L, dont expect a high amount of comfort on the trail. Having quick access to your headlamp or a bar is much better than digging around in the depths of a 40-liter pack at the belay. And be sure to pay attention to load limitstheyre crucial for comfort on the trail. In terms of climbing with a pack on, many climbers prefer to have their small follower pack sit high on their back and out of the way of their harness rather than swinging low around their waist. One of our main gripes about the previous Ascensionist was its non-expandable collar, which Patagonia addressed with a tall spindrift collar in the new model that can accommodate varying loads. What we dont: Overbuilt for most purposes. But the FL leaves a lot to be desired in terms of comfort, convenience, and capacity, and not all alpinists need that superb climbability. This stiff, aggressive shoe is perhaps best known for its ability to perch on tiny edges Quinn Brett does a handstand every day. If minimizing ounces is not your top priority, you should consider the slightly heavier, more durable, and more comfortable options. We do wish the Mutants hipbelt was detachableit wraps around the pack to stay out of the way of a harness, but we prefer the added customization when possible. For overnight missions, its also available in a 55-liter version, comparable in price to the Mutant 52 but slightly lighter ($250; 2 lbs. 9.6 oz. Does it have a one-handed drawstring? Made with durable 840-denier nylon, the Rock Blitz is a considerable step up in durability from the REI Flash above. In terms of crag packs, we strongly recommend finding one that can accommodate all of your gear in the inside compartment. and price ($30) penalty with the Exped, but in return get slightly more volume and a few additional features, including side-zipper access to the main compartment, a generously sized front zip, and a top strap that can compress the pack even smaller than its 35-liter body. Most notably, we find the drawstring closure and lid to be a fairly archaic design, especially the lids Velcro attachment, which makes it difficult to extend with an over-full load. The result is an attractive all-rounder that resembles a streamlined version of our top-ranked Osprey but climbs even better (although we still prefer the Alpha FL). Many follower packs also have multiple gear attachment points, which is handy if youre climbing in Squamish and walking off the summit of the Chief with all your gear. Category: CragWeight: 3 lbs. 2 oz.Capacities: 45LWhat we like: An affordable pack with convenient, crag-specific features.What we dont: Not as well made as the Black Diamond Creek 50. In fact, most alpine and follower packs in this article are hydration-compatible, with the exception of just a couple.