Who knows. Ive used General Finishes High Performance many times and it offers a decent looking finish that doesnt add much color. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Finally, if the lowest sheen you can find is satin, and youre using a rustic material anyway, you might just experiment with a dry-brushing technique as the urethane tacks off. It is great finish, Fabulon was used years ago as a finish for Gym floors. Take this bookcasefor example. I have a front door which has just been stripped. Modern Masters makes a product called Modern Masters DP401 Exterior Dead Flat Varnish Low VOC. This post contains affiliate links. I am building a barnwood kitchen table and want to make it like a bar top but with that material it makes the wood the wet look and takes away the look of barnwood how can I seal it so I keep the worn out look but have a film to protect from food and liquid spills. Timber has enough natural preservatives to make it last yours and many more lifetimes after, even in a bathroom. This isnt floors, but some panels are about 5 x 7. My Question is for an outdoor table that will have to endure all types of weather as I live up north what product do you suggest to keep it as pristine as it looks now? The problem is the poly is wet and when it soaks into the wood it darkens it taking away the natural appeal of the wood and making it looked stained and more formal. Solution: cerusing wax. 2022 Rachel Paxton (Maison de Pax). Just curious. I am looking for a natural and raw wood look and they seem to have what looks like the best solution and lowest VOCs. Sometimes staining in a high humidity environment can create a stickiness in the final texture. Try calling a local store and see if they have any in stock. Bona floor finish in natural (flat), Modern Masters Dead Flat varnish and Renaissance Microcrystalline Wax. It smells beautiful and is totally safe. Your email address will not be published. If anyone would like a photo of comparisons of Raw, Modern Masters, Candle Wax, liquid wax, liquid soap, pure soap, organ oil and tinted oil, please send me an email on benzebedeeplayer@gmail.com and I will forward an image. The main goal in finishing a piece of woodfurniture is to protect the piece from wear and stains. Hi, I just looked on the Sherwin Williams website and I cant find anything called CAB-acrylic lacquer, did they change the name? God Bless! This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. Photography Resources for Photographing Interiors, Lightroom Presets for Lifestyle and Interiors. The organic,raw wood lookis both classic and popular. It will be outside with no protection. I did paint the outside (giving it a little more protection on the portions that might receive the most wear), but I loved the natural look of the stripped wood inside. This weeks question comes from Eric who asks: Ive got a finishing question.I bet you get tired of hearing that! I started by strippingthe wood and loved the raw, unfinished look. Puts all production at my shop on hold for days. I dont really want to alter the colour too much. Will this mean lighter woods will remain as a trend? https://www.targetcoatings.com/. All rights reserved. We are having a millworker make rift cut oak cabinets and woudl like to keep the natural wood color. You can apply it by brush or by spray. Then dont finish them. The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". Thanks so much! Hit all corners and edges so they have a slight roundover. I think it is still available but hard to find , It is expensive to ship, because of its VOCs. You have to let the oil-finish dry for at least two days before applying a water-based top coat (otherwise it will cloud up), but then you can apply General Finishes High Performance Water-Based Flat over the tung oil finish. And do you have before and after pictures of the staining process? You said, There are also water-white lacquers that work very well. We are currently dealing with similar problem with purpleheart. I would love to know if you found a good solution. Reading this article/comments it sounds like Sherwin Willams CAB-acrylic is the best product. Functional cookies help to perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collect feedbacks, and other third-party features. I hope this helps! Any advice is appreciated. We have sanded it off and LOVE the natural look and want to keep it without darkening the finish. Love the look but dont want to worry about every water drop or occasional toy banging. How do you bring natural color to wood? Is oil-based polyurethan or water-basedpoly better?This is a great debate. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. I tried epoxy, partly to hold the bark on the edges, that completely blocked out the light images and ruined my slab. Sealing wood always affects the color a bit, but Flat out Flat definitely doesnt go as yellow or orange as traditional poly. Hope this helps! Any suggestions?? I found it on ebay here in Australia & it appears its available worldwide. Each wood species has different tendencies (mahogany has deep purple and red undertones, for example), so some more exotic woods actually need different treatments. Note: you cannot put polyor other sealerson top of wax! A little fellow in Lowes told me to put Minwax Polycrylic clear topcoat water based on it. I used this product on my old ubiquitous red oak 2 1/4 floors two years ago. or what do you recommend, it would have to be sprayed on. I do know that as a designer myself, the look of darker, browner wood immediately turns off clients, makes things look old, crowded, or just plain too dark. Clearly any vanish or oil will darken it. Have some old rail cart farm table projects that I would like to start, and to me, the finish is most important. Sounds like you need to look into water-based finishes. What you want to go for is a finish that is known as water-white. I am getting ready to apply finish to an oak burl inlay table. Yeah that could do the trick. but still want it to have that raw, unfinished look. A water-based whitewash looked better, but really hate to go down that path as the area is so large and it will be difficult to keep a uniform spread with the white wash potential problem with it drying unevenly before it can be wiped off. Good day folks..another snow day on the West Coast and we just finished sanding down our 60 year old white oak floors to bare wood. It looks natural no shine. Unfortunately I cant. Seemed to preserve the raw wood color. Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. I am about to seal my raw wood table in MM Dead Flat and wondering if it has flaked started to peel at all? They changed the color but also seemed to erase part of the powder coating.Im wondering if spraying would be better than brushing which is what I did. The key for you Eric is to experiment on scrap. I am making 9 wooden signs for a friend. I might just opt for an unfinished look to keep that very weathered and antique look: repurposed 50+ year old slats from an oak sleigh Your email address will not be published. You may want to try a small spray can on your desired wood. I wish the MM dead flat exterior would be sufficient, but if you look at ww websites, oil-based products with high sheen offer the best protection. Hi , my question I have vintage white teak barn doors and my neighbour insists I should seal them . If you want a clear finish, a simply polyurethane varnish is probably your best bet. Thanks, I need advice. Be sure to test on an inconspicuous area before committing to the entire project. I ended up doing 2 coats of the flat poly. I am building a toy box, for my son, using scrap 6 cedar fence pickets. Of course sanding it did as well. Youre a little outside of my wheelhouse as I dont even know what a powder coating is. Super pricey but gorgeous. What product do you recommend or could we just leave them alone. Ive used Renaissance Wax before, it changes the color of whatever surface you put it on and its SUPER expensive. Do I have to seal it or can I leave it like it is since most things change the color? What would be the best product to use for this situation? However, the amount of traffic that a piece of furniture=will receive determines how it needs to be sealed and protected. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other. Just about any finish is going to change the color. I really dont like the look of freshly stained and sanded brand new furniture so would like to get the chair to a place where its protected without looking wet/darker. There have been at least 3 people asking how to keep the raw reclaimed wood from getting a wet dark look when polyurethane is applied directly on the wood. I realized that it would need a protective coat of something due to 5 young grandsons. I too wanted as close to natural as possible. One of my all-time favorite finishes is Sherwin Williams CAB-acrylic lacquer, which imparts little to no color to the wood. Thanks for all the great info. Aside from the finish recommended in the article, you can try just about any water-based finish out there. I did a test with MM dead flat on a piece of wood and once dry I tested it with a few drops of water. Cures to walk on within hours, and you can move furniture in the next morning. So if you want it to stay pristine, keep it inside. However, wanted to see if there were any recent recommendations or new products on the market. Experiment, and do sample tests. I tried the marine spar but its way way to shiny. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. I might even consider trying it for a barn wood tabletop, although I have my own reservations about those. I recently finished new white pine kitchen cabinets. Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors. So I looked up info on the Sherwin Williams Cab Acrylic lacquer. I am looking for the same look. Thanks for any input. Evennatural oil finishes often darken the color. I am refinishing a kitchen table and will be painting it (probably chalk paint or milk paint), then applying decals to it in the center and around the edges. What can I put on it to seal it but not change the color at all. For all three of these I am grateful for the quick dry time. What about the pieces that need a really durable finish? We are attempting to be as green as possible, so no more spraying for us. One of my all-time favorite finishes is Sherwin Williams CAB-acrylic lacquer, which imparts little to no color to the wood. At least any finish that truly protects the surface. Just the raw wood or stain if thats what your after. Ive had some of this furniture in heavy use (coffee table) for over 4 years and they still look flawless when clean. There are different colors of shellac as well so keep that in mind. Im an artist who has recently started working with pyrographics (wood burning). Here is a link that speaks directly to using Oxalic Acid Cleaner: https://corecheminc.com/cleani..d-to-know/. Water-based flat offers the least protection. Doug. Good luck. Most water-based finishes bring no color to the wood, so it remains the natural color even after several coats are applied. Hello, I have a small solid oak chair from the 50s that was once (decades ago) stained darker and then for the most of its life had potted plants sat on it. Pretty good stuff. It is a well-used table, so I do wipe it at the end of the day with a damp sponge and wonder if that is the problem. Great article and comments! Using an oil based product leaves the floor a yellow Amber color which I do not want HELP!!!! I was going to attempt waxing but worried it would clump in the saw marks. My question is is that enough? The point is, even us pros dont have a solution that checks all the boxes all the time. Once finished, there wasnt the slightest suggestion that there was ever any discoloration. :). Click here to read my full disclosure. How do you stop this from happening? I have googled, asks so many people and NO ONE knows what to do. Everybody I have talked to face to face has always liked the warm color of oil finishes; some like the amberish tone of tung oil, while others prefer the slightly yellowish tone of linseed oil and varnish. I want something that will not damage or cause the decals to run or dissolve when I put it on. The Wood Whisperer, The Wood Whisperer Guild, TWW, and TWW Guild are trademarks of The Wood Whisperer Inc. All rights reserved. I recently finished my fireplace with reclaimed teak wood that has been both stained and finished with a powder coating. Any other advice or suggestions? Guys All content on The Wood Whisperer is copyrighted, and may not be reprinted in full form without my written consent. It is a huge tred white/natural/raw looking wood. The thing is built but we are going back and forth because as the manufacturers, and more importantly, warrantors of this piece, we want to protect it, but the client wants it to look unfinished. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads. To achieve a natural looking finish, there are two keys: not changing the wood color and not changing the sheenof the wood.